Top Ten Cheap Supercars of 2018!

In the world of Supercars these days it’s always about who has the most expensive or flashiest supercar, now while that is great and all not everyone can afford to buy such an item and unfortunately they are only a dream to us mere paupers in our ‘ordinary’ cars, well that is no more as I’m about to show you – here are the top ten cheap Supercars of 2018!

1. Lotus Esprit V8


Ah, the good old Lotus Esprit!, as British as a pint of Bitter and the star of many Spy films throughout the 70’s & 80’s the Esprit has been the car of choice for Mr Bond on more than one occasion, now while those were the 4 cylinder models (with some having Turbo’s on them) none of them have had that glorious 3.5 Lotus built V8 powering it.

Pushing 350 bhp & 295 ibs/ft Torque with help from two Garrett T25/60 Turbochargers and a top speed of over 170mph this Esprit was no slouch whatsoever and could finally keep up with the Supercar Elite from the likes of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Mercedes-Benz & Aston Martin and due to it being a Lotus it only weighed in at 1338kg in GT or SE trims and even less in Esprit 350 trim, this meant it couldn’t just out handle the likes of the Ferrari’s or Astons on a back road or track but was also quicker 0-60 and 0-100 respectively making it a real force to reckon with and a real fly in the oitment for all the other manufacturers, However after 8 years of production run (for the V8’s) sales plummeted as the other manufacturers were able to pour out more money into their cars to make them better, faster, comfier and easier to live with compared to the old Esprit.

That wasn’t the only issue with the Esprit neither, Engines for the V8’s were detuned from a possible 500bhp to 350bhp due to gearbox issues, while Lotus could build their own engines, unfortunately for the Esprit there wasn’t a Gearbox which could handle that amount of power, throughout the Esprits life they all used gearboxes from Renault’s & Citroens – Citroen Gearboxes in earlier models & Renault Gearboxes in later models, these gearboxes were perfect in the Turbo models or the 4 pot models but unfortunately in V8 form they could only just put the power down without breaking everything so with 500bhp in original tune the gearbox wouldn’t cope and because this was the late 90’s to early ’00’s it wasn’t as if Lotus could shop around and either find another which could possibly fit or even build their own as they didn’t have the funds so with that the Esprit was hindered with an amazing Engine, a sublime chassis but a weak transmission and with other manufacturers upping their game the Lotus shortly fell behind and in February 2004 after a final redesign, the plug was pulled after 28 years of production.

So why am I bringing up the Lotus Esprit as such a good buy if has such a weak gearbox? well due to that prices have dropped and for a decent Esprit V8 these days you can pick one up for £30,000 to £40,000 for a low mileage unmodified SE or GT example with full Lotus history and a clean bill of health which makes it an absolute bargain of a buy, especially considering a brand new 68 plate BMW 3 series or C Class for instance is a similar price and nowhere as good to drive as the big beefy V8 Esprit. Also the Esprit’s are starting to become rare cars these days so prices are slowly but surely on the up with no signs of losing anymore value which means that if you buy one now, in a few years time you wouldn’t have really lost anything value wise. Gearbox wise you don’t really need to worry as there are kits available to make the gearbox strong enough to handle more than the factory 350bhp which makes it perfect for tuning if that is your thing.

Issues to look out for?

Esprit’s aren’t too shabby on the whole reliability front, just make sure you find a good example with a good gearbox, also check all the electrics are fine as trying to fix them can be difficult as they’re a majority of little wires which go to different things and can be tricky to retrace if lost.

gearboxes can still be found but as they aren’t being made anymore so trying to find a good one can be a little trickier than one might expect.

If you ever fancy modifying one, I’d suggest getting the gearbox rebuilt to handle more power otherwise you’ll run into more issues if you don’t and it can be expensive.

2. Audi R8 4.2 FSI MK1


A cheap supercar list wouldn’t be a thing if it wasn’t for the Audi R8 4.2 V8 FSI, released in 2006 it was Audi’s first proper entry into the Supercar market after building Super Saloons & Wagons for years prior, first released with the 4.2 V8 from the Audi B7 RS4 it was a phenomenal engine in a fantastic package – Mid Engined, a Quattro 4WD system that Audi have been renowned for, big enough for two passengers yet small enough to drive easily and because it was an Audi and a part of Volkswagen Audi Group (VAG) it wasn’t just more reliable but parts were also cheaper than all of it’s rivals while still providing the build quality anyone expects from Audi’s.

On top of that, power was up there with the best of the bunch – 414bhp & 317 ibs/ft Torque respectively it could easily out drag a Porsche 911 or Aston V8 Vantage with relative ease, top speed for the V8 was 187 mph making it one of the fastest Supercars around at the time. Original pricing was £111,955 OTR for the Manual and £117,155 for the R-Tronic models

A majority of the design was taken from the 2003 Le Mans Concept car but altered slightly for production making it rather close to the concept car everyone loved with 3 years prior. Carbon Fibre was also used on the R8 to keep as much weight down to counteract the heavy 4WD system.

Now a few years after the V8 got released, Audi AG planted the 5.2 V10 from the Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4 into the engine bay to give it 525bhp & 391 ibs/ft Torque respectively and this boosted top speed to a staggering 196 mph – this was a lowish end Audi Supercar taking on the big boys from Italy and making it look easy, The V10 from the Lamborghini really worked well in Audi’s favour as many Supercar owners went to the R8 first before going to the Gallardo as they saw it as a easier way to get into a top end Supercar without paying over the odds for a Lamborghini which was very similar underneath or a Ferrari which was even more.

Now the main reason I’m bringing up the 4.2 V8 instead of the 5.2 V10 is because the early V8’s are unbelievable value for money, due to the fact it was Audi’s first supercar and they’d never built one before, they never really held their money too good compared to their rivals so what does this mean exactly? Well you can pick up a well specced 4.2 V8 Manual for a measly £35,000 with Full Audi History and and low mileage of 40K – 50K which isn’t really much for these compared to rivals, for an R-Tronic Semi Auto model expect to pay anywhere from £37,500 for a similar specced one with similar mileage which is in one way or another the same price as a Golf R or Audi S3 and none of those (while amazing cars) can quite fill the feeling you get when driving an exotic.

Issues to look out for? 

The real main issues really with the Audi R8 4.2 is only two things. first of all the early R-Tronics aren’t really the smoothest of Gearboxes as they have been refined endlessly throughout the R8’s life so don’t expect seemingless changes with the early cars as you’d be quite surprised, me personally I’d save a bit of money and buy the 6 speed gated manual instead as it’s known to be a right pleasure to use, only issue really is trying to find one in budget as there’s tons out there at similar prices and it’s quite easy to go over budget trying to find a well looked after example which brings me onto the second issue with the R8 – whether you are looking at an R-Tronic or the Manual prices are so similar it’s easy to be spoilt for choice and while that’s a good thing for your wallet, it can be quite difficult trying to find one which fits the bill exactly as you’d want it.

Whichever one you go for however is completely up to you and they’re faultless in terms of reliability and are known to be really easy to drive for a Supercar and regardless of price, spec, mileage or gearbox they are a very easy to get into the Supercar market and even after 12 years they still look, drive and go like a supercar should when pushed.

3. Nissan GT-R (R35) 


Yes I know, I know, a pretty Typical Choice as a cheap supercar but hear me out on this, I am in no way a Japanese Car fan but even I have to acknowledge the GT-R R35, it is so good it just can’t be dismissed from the list. First, a quick overview of the R35 GTR

The R35 was the fifth incarnation of Nissan’s Skyline GT-R line up, over the years,  GT-R Skylines have been renown for bringing in massive amounts of power, a ton of groundbreaking tech and an amazing chassis into the mix and the R35 is no different, released in 2007 it completely dropped the ‘Skyline’ name (as that was used on Japanese Market Infiniti’s), it’s computer screen in the dash was developed by Polyphony Digital – the creators of the ‘Gran Turismo’ games, these showed many things like boost gauge, sat nav, G Force readout, oil temperature amongst many other things, just like the R8 above it had AWD, it had over 478 bhp (with some sources claiming it to be near 500bhp), but instead of a V8 like the Lotus & the R8, the GT-R had a 3.8 Twin Turbo V6 with that immense power also came unbelievable Torque at 434 ibs/ft respectively.

Numbers aside however this was not a car to be sniffed at, in fact the technology was the best part of the car to be frankly honest, out was the famed ‘Hicas’ system from the Skylines and in came an all new computing system which was able to balance everything with ease, the tyres, suspension & brakes were also the best they could possibly be with the wheels themselves having grooves in them to stop the tyres popping off when thrashing it round a track.

The Launch Control system was also known for literally flinging the car forward and for the time it was the best L/C system the world had ever seen as it could easily fend off an R8, Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche with absolute ease and unlike the higher end machinery which could only really use their L/C systems a few times before breaking a major expensive component, the Nissan could do it all day long without breaking a sweat making it a robust, reliable system which really puts into perspective how well Nissan engineer their cars.

All technology & performance aside, the GT-R was still a fully fledged 2 door, 4 seater coupé with a big boot making it an unlikely rival to a mid-engined Ferrari or Lamborghini, in many ways it could be easily mistaken for a GT car due to it being front engined too!

Which brings me onto something else too, GT-R’s are really good tourers if that’s your thing, they don’t break as near as much as a Ferrari would and could easily be used day in day out if needed be and due to their alliance with tuners can easily be modded in all different types of ways to suit the owners.

Issues to look out for?

While GT-R’s are known to be pretty reliable & bulletproof you still need to do your homework, for a start, make sure all the technology works as it should as it’s a very complex system and if it breaks it can be expensive, also check tyres & brakes – GT-R’s are very capable track cars and a lot of them have been thrashed in doing so so make sure they are all in good condition otherwise it can be quite a hefty bill to fix them.

Try to also get one with a Full Nissan History as these show that they’ve been looked after really well and have been babied throughout their life and always had the best thrown at them.

Apart from that the GT-R’s are bulletproof and can be had at a very cheap price considering the performance & reliability, expect to pay upwards of £32,000 for an early example all the way £76,000 upwards for a new 18 plate GT-R, in regards to price, these are really becoming a lot of peoples entry into getting a supercar, even though a lot of cars have become quicker and their gearboxes have become sharper which makes the GT-R slip down the supercar hierarchy a little bit, the GT-R is still a bonafide Supercar slayer and for the price you really can’t go wrong whatsoever.

4. Porsche 911 ‘997’ Turbo 


Just like the Audi R8 mentioned above, this list wouldn’t be complete without a Porsche 911, for this however I’m going to concentrate on the ‘997’ Turbo as these are more a supercar than out & out sports cars, built to take on Ferrari’s F430, the Turbo originally came with a 3.6 litre flat six engine with variable vane Turbo’s meaning it had the responsiveness of a small light pressure turbo but had the out and out power of a high pressure turbo

Power for the early 3.6’s was rated at 473bhp & 457 ibs/ft Torque respectively with a 0-60 sprint being done in 3.4s and a top speed of 194 mph which certainly made it a contender in a game of Supercar Top Trumps, just like the GT-R & R8, the Porsche was also AWD with it being a very similar system used in the then Cayenne SUV, this made it quicker off the line if a bit heavy however it was still capable of being blisteringly quick

In 2010 the ‘997’ Turbo – known now as the 997.2 Turbo got a bit of a mid life facelift which included distinctive styling updates over the original and these included; Front LED Parking, Driving & Indicator lights and clearer looking rear lamps, mechanically speaking there was a big change, firstly the cubic capacity was now 3.8 litres instead of 3.6, for PDK models, flappy paddles were added in to make shifts faster & easier and it also had a bump in power to 486bhp which is a jump in 20bhp over the original.

Issues to look out for?

The ‘997’ Turbo in both 3.6 & 3.8 guise can go on forever so reliability shouldn’t ever be an issue, the only real issue I can see is body styles, the ‘997’ Turbo came in two body styles, a Coupé & a Convertible, Convertibles are rather flimsy when the roof is taken away so manufacturers normally put strengthening beams in place to make it stiff thus making the car heavier and not as sharp to drive, now while the 997 Convertible isn’t a pig to drive, if you want an out & out performance car, the Coupé is the better bet as it’s more taught, not as heavy and is far and away the better drivers car whereas the Convertible would be more suited to cruising

If you are in the market for a Convertible 911 Turbo, check that the roof isn’t ripped or teared as these can be expensive to replace, also check mats and carpet too as rain could possible get in and ruin them too and while they aren’t too expensive compared to the roof, they are a faff to do and can be timely to fix.

Overall the Porsche 911 Turbo is a very useable, quick and an easy owning car the world over loves and is certainly on the way up in regards to value with prices starting at £45,000 for a 3.6 Coupé & £50,000 for a 3.6 Convertible while prices for the later 3.8 models start from £65,000 for a Coupé & £72,000 for a Convertible.

5. Honda NSX MK1


Oh how different & better the Nineties were, Unlike todays Honda NSX which is a Hybrid with a V6 in the mix, the original NSX from the early 90’s was a completely different animal, first of all it had a 3.0 V6 which was midship mounted just like a Ferrari 348, it was a Honda which meant it was gonna be Reliable as Honda’s always are and of course it had Honda’s fabled VTEC system which made it a completely different car when in the higher RPM’s.

Engine wise it had a 3.0 V6 which produced 271 bhp & 209 ibs/ft respectively, now while that doesn’t sound like much these days, the car itself was made of an all aluminium body making it really light – 1370kg in fact, in many ways it’s just like the Esprit above where it’s a decently powerful engine in a very light body & Chassis, just like the R8, the NSX was Honda’s first ever supercar and due to that it had to be special to stay ahead of the competition and boy was it special.

See, the late great Ayrton Senna actually helped Honda develop the NSX prior to his death which meant it was engineered to perfection and tie that in to Honda’s brilliant engineering regarding their Engines, with Ayrton working on the development of it the car was bound to be a success and boy it was.

It soon won the hearts of petrol heads all over the world with it’s balanced chassis, relatively powerful engine & lightweight body making it the Honda to have soon after it’s release, top speed was 165mph which might not seem much by todays standards but back in the 90’s Supercars were not far off hitting 180mph so it was definitely a contender.

The best part about the NSX by far though is it’s Pop-Up headlamps, this gave it a look which no other NSX has been able to pull off since, with them down it looks sleek and ready for purpose and when they’re up it looks like it’s attentive to what’s going on around it, Pop-Ups on a car really do look good, especially on the NSX.

Prices start at £38,000 for a well used ’93 Manual going all the way up to £80,000 for a late ’01 3.2 V6 Targa with only 11k on the clock.

Issues to look out for? 

The Honda is very reliable like all Honda’s so that’s not an issue, however every car has it’s flaws and the NSX isn’t any different, I’d personally steer away from the Automatic as it doesn’t suit the NSX whatsoever, I’d go for the 5 speed manual instead and save a bit of money and enjoy that Engine in all it’s glory, also if you are in the market for a later model Targa, check that the Roof seals are in good nick as these are likely to perish with age just like any older car.

If you can, try and find a Type-R model NSX as these are well sought after and are only gonna shoot up in value, on top of that they’re great fun to drive as they are lighter too so even more fun to drive, finding one isn’t easy but if you ever do, hold onto it – you won’t regret it!

Check for any dents or undulations in the bodywork, as these have an all aluminium body it’s quite easy to dent and can be a tad expensive to fix as aluminium is a soft metal which is rather thin compared to conventional steel.

6. Ferrari 360 Modena ‘F1’  


‘Oh che bella automobile’ as the Italians would say, we have to have a Ferrari on this list as it won’t be the same without a Prancing Horse here and what a Prancing horse we have;

Released in 1999, the Ferrari 360 Modena was the replacement for the F355 and was a completely different car than the car before it, gone was the sharp straight lines for a more conventional curvy nature, gone also were the pop up headlamps in favour for clear lenses and also gone was the GTS model with the removal hard top roof.

The Ferrari 360 was powered by a 3.6 V8 with 400bhp & 275 ibs/ft and could hit a top speed of 183mph, it sent it’s power through either a a six speed gated manual gearbox or the aptly named ‘F1’ Electrohydrualic Manual – in other words a Flappy Paddle Gearbox.

The reason why the ‘F1’ Gearbox is mentioned in here is due to one of two things, first of all the F1 gearbox in the 360’s was technology carried over from Ferrari’s F1 team when Michael Schumacher raced for the team and got them back to the top of the championship, it was one of the first modern Ferrari’s to use this new system with plenty following afterwards and was the Gearbox to have if you wanted your Ferrari to be about out & out performance & lap times however over the last few years the times have changed for the 360.

What is that change exactly? Well over these last few years a lot of people looking at 360’s for either their collection, their first Ferrari or even for a liveable supercar, they’ve all been going for the Manual’s instead of the F1’s meaning the Manuals have started to go up in value leaving the F1 derivatives to stay put as people say the Manuals while not the fastest way of out & out driving, it’s more relaxing and more involved compared to the F1 box.

What does this mean for the F1 Gearbox cars? Well even though values have fairly remained the same over these last few years, they are now considerably cheaper than the manual derivatives meaning they’re a little more within reach for a potential Ferrari Owner.

Prices for a F1 Gearbox car starts from £53,000 for an early Coupé & £60,000 for the Spyder, while these aren’t the cheapest out there, compared to a Manual they’re significantly cheaper.

Issues to look out for?

First of all and this is the most important, check that the car has been serviced all it’s life by either a Ferrari specialist or even better a Ferrari dealer, this can separate the good cars from the bad ones, in regards to value, stay away from an Insurance write off as these can plummet the value by quite a bit.

Check that all the electrics are working and aren’t playing up as Ferrari’s of this age can become a little pain if not driven regularly, also check that the Gearbox oil has been regularly changed as it can make a good gearbox rather sloppy and horrible to use.

If you are wanting the wind in your hair and fancy the Spyder, just like the 911 Turbo, check that the roof doesn’t have any rips or tears in it and check the carpets & mats for any dampness as these can be expensive to replace.

7. Lamborghini Gallardo 5.0 V10 


Released in 2003, the Lamborghini Gallardo was the first ever small Supercar Lamborghini had made since Audi bought them back in the early noughties, it was the younger son of the Murcielago and thus had a smaller engine compared to the big V12 Lambo.

Powering the Gallardo was a 5.0 V10 producing 493bhp & 376 ibs/ft, with a top speed of 197mph the Gallardo was in no way a slouch, all that power went through either the ‘E’ Gear Gearbox which just like the Ferrari was a flappy paddle setup, it was also available with a gated 6 speed manual gearbox, which ever gearbox you chose it sent the power to it’s 4WD system which made it slightly heavier at 1430kg but benefitted it in lots of ways.

First of all, it could get off the line quickly, safely and with no drama whatsoever whereas the likes of the 360 would probably be left scrabbling for grip, it also helped in cornering too as it wasn’t too crazy like the Lamborghini’s of old which was a bit of a double edged sword.

See, some people loved the new way Lamborghini were going as they were now seen as proper performance cars whereas old school Lambo people saw it as too soft and not scary enough to deserve the badge, whatever way people saw it however, it was still a stormer and a real competitor to the likes of the F430 or the Aston Martin DB9.

The best bit about the Gallardo though was the V10’s glorious noise, it was truly gorgeous to listen to and the cherry on top of the cake for many an owner.

Issues to look out for?

Now mainly the Gallardo and Lamborghini being now owned and ran by Audi they are relatively reliable & bulletproof, there was a recall for all 2004-2006 models for a potential fire risk due to power steering fluid leaking so make sure the car you’re looking at has had this recall done.

Make sure the car has full Lamborghini history so it separates the good from the bad, make sure to also stay away from an Insurance write off as they are pretty low in value.

Check the roofs, mats and carpets on Spyders for leaks as they can be expensive, check to make sure the nose lift works as it should as the Gallardo is quite low and can catch it’s front end on a kerb or incline if not careful, check the front bumper for any scrapes as this could be an indication that it’s on it’s way out.

Overall, the Gallardo is a great car and isn’t too bad on the whole reliability front due to being owned by Audi, prices are high but not over the top compared to it’s rivals which makes it perfect for sports car owners coming out of the likes of a Cayman S into their first supercar.

Expect to pay upwards of £60,000 for a Coupé & £75,000 for a Spyder, as mentioned, these aren’t the cheapest but compared to a new Hurucan which can be upwards of £200k they certainly are a great buy.

8. Aston Martin DBS V12


Yes, yes, I know, this is more of a GT Car than an actual supercar but hear me out here please, the DBS V12 is very similar to the GT-R mentioned earlier, while it may not be a tech fest like the Nissan, it is a powerful 2 door 4 seater Front Engined ‘GT’ car with performance to match a Supercar, based on the DB9 and taking many an influence from the DBR9 race car, the DBS has numbers to match a bonafide Mid Engined Ferrari or McLaren.

the DBS was fitted with a 6.0 V12 from the old DB9 but this time it had 510bhp & 420 ibs/ft Torque and with a top speed of 191 mph it is certainly in the Supercar league, not bad for a GT Car at all.

The DBS also has history and an affinity with Mr James Bond and films like Casino Royale & Quantum Of Solace making it the only car here to actually be in a well franchised film series.

Gearbox wise, they had a 6 speed manual or a 6 speed ‘Touchtronic’ system which unfortunately was a Single Clutch affair, this means it’s not the smoothest or quickest of gear changes, the Touchtronic systems have been upgraded over the years so it’s not as bad as say the ones in the early DB9’s, Vantage’s or Vanquish’s but it’s no Twin Clutch that’s for certain.

Best bit about the DBS and any V12 Aston really is the noise, it honestly sounds like the London Philharmonic Orchestra are playing the Intro Song to a Bond Film through it’s exhaust pipes,  its honestly like a symphony and is an Engine loved the world over just for that and that only.

Issues to look out for?

The DBS isn’t actually as unreliable as everyone makes them out to be if I’m honest, however, many an Aston – DBS Included are handmade which means two things, one good, one bad, the good point is that they feel like no other car on the road, something a mass produced car could never bring to the table, however as they aren’t mass produced like it’s rivals, the build quality may not be up to scratch compared to an Audi or Porsche and it may need a few more parts and work done compared to it’s rivals.

Also check for Aston History and if possible, try and get one where Aston Martin Works have serviced it all it’s life as those are the holy grails in the Aston World, The Works dealer and technicians down in Newport Pagnell are downright wizards to Astons & their owners and just for that part alone they are worth a lot more than a DBS or DB9 getting serviced at a standalone dealer.

Expect to pay for quite a lot of fuel as those 6.0 V12’s aren’t the most economic of units, expect 17.3 combined MPG for one on a decent run and low teens if on a bit of a back road hoon.

Expect to pay upwards of £73,000 for a Coupé & upwards of £85,000 for a later Volante, now while these sound expensive, it’s either a DBS like these or a Mid to high spec new model Audi RS5 Coupé which certainly puts into perspective how much car you are getting with the DBS.

9. Dodge Viper SRT-10


Well well well, what do we have here, a cheap supercar from America? surely not I all hear you scream but here we have one and believe it or not it’s probably one of the best American cars out there, the Dodge Viper!

Now a lot of people may say that the Viper is a sports car and that may well be true but with the SRT-10 it started to stray away from being a sports car and started to become a bonafide supercar, with a almighty 8.3 V10 under it’s nose, it produces a whopping 500bhp & 534 is/ft Torque which in no way or other makes it a contender for this list and with a top speed of 189mph it’s certainly left it’s sports car past behind it.

Power went through a 6 speed manual gearbox and from there sent it all to the rear wheels just like Vipers of old and while on the subject of Vipers of old, this also reminded people of Vipers of old as it wasn’t easy to drive and could easily snap if not driven properly, if driven properly and with respect however it was known to be an amazing drivers car and that shows as people love the SRT-10 worldwide.

Issues to look out for? 

First of all make sure you can find a garage or specialist who can fix a Viper like these up, we never got the Viper in the UK officially so trying to find a garage can be difficult, also expect parts to be expensive as they’ll have to be imported from America through specialist units.

Also for the life of you, take it easy when driving this car as they can easily snap and be a handful if not driven properly, also check to make sure all the running gear is in good working order, many of these cars are imports and there is a chance they could’ve been thrashed by their previous US Owners.

Also look out for Coupés as they aren’t as good as the convertibles as they are slightly heavier due to the fixed roof, weird to say I know as it’s normally the other way round.

These SRT-10’s can be amazing cars as long as a specialist can be found and parts can be accessed too. Prices start at upwards of £50,000 for a SRT-10 convertible and about £45,000 or more for a Coupé if one can be found.

10. Audi R8 V10 Plus 2nd Gen 


So, here we are, we are finally at number 10 on this list and what a way to finish this article off with the Brand New – yes I said Brand New Audi R8 V10 Plus!, Remember what I said about the original Audi R8 4.2 V8 above? well this new one has the exact same formula as the old one, the new R8 has cemented itself as the new budget supercar, this car has as much performance as a car double the price of it which is just outstanding.

Just like the original R8, these also have a 5.2 V10 FSI from a Lamborghini, this time however the engine is lifted from the Hurucan and not the Gallardo like the old car, this time it generates 602 bhp & 413 ibs/ft Torque, that’s more than the new 911 Turbo, more than the new DB11 and as much if not more than the Lamborghini it shares it’s parts with but instead of being about the same price as the shouty Italian it’s 100K less – that’s unbelievable value for money, especially for a brand new factory fresh car.

Top Speed is 205 mph which makes it the fastest car on this list and can also compete with it’s rivals rather well, and because it’s an Audi, it also has Quattro 4WD making it a perfect usable supercar which isn’t something you can really say with todays new low, long and wide supercars.

Issues to look out for?

Well there is two issues I can see with the new R8 and that is this, first of all the depreciation isn’t the best and that shows as some are now dipping into below £100K belt, and unfortunately just like the old R8, everyone seems to go for one over the Hurucan making them rather popular and a crowded market on the second hand market.

Reliability is faultless and is typical Audi so no worries there, Parts aren’t that expensive neither, especially compared to rivals so just like the original it’s easy to look after and run on a nigh on daily basis.

Prices start from £88,000 for a coupé & £120,000 for a Spyder which makes it unbelievable value for money and a perfect way into brand new supercar ownership.


So here we have it, you can indeed get a supercar on the cheap and just because someone has the most expensive one out there doesn’t mean that us normal people can’t have one because we can! As this list shows, if you shop around a little bit you can indeed go from whatever you have, whether it’s a Hatchback, a Saloon, A Coupé, a Convertible or even an SUV into the Supercar elite, now some of these cars are forgotten about a little bit, some are typical and some are just downright left field which is something great, especially in the car community!

What is your go to Cheap supercar and why?, also add into the comments if you have any suggestions that I may have missed and I’ll look into them, I found it gobsmacking that you can get the likes of a Viper for only £50,000, I’ve always expected them to be more so to find out they’re not is educating, it’s not just the Viper though, some of these cars are unbelievable value for money these days which can only be a good thing.

If you seriously are looking into buying a Supercar on the cheap, look into the one you’re after, check them out thoroughly, keep your options open and also check out cars you may not have considered before as sometimes these can be the some of the best hidden deals ever!

Hope You Enjoy!

By Alex Jebson


ProjectC70 gets a new Front Bumper!!!

So for anyone who keeps up with my Social Media pages, you will have noticed quite a rather large and intricate job getting done to “ProjectC70”, my Volvo C70 Coupé over these last few weeks and that is a new front bumper getting fitted to it. Now this wasn’t entirely a planned job as you’ll find out, never the less, it was a job I’ve never done before so I was excited to do it.

So Why Did I Change The Front Bumper?

As mentioned above the Front Bumper replacement was never on my lists of jobs to do as it was in a pretty decent state, it of course did have a few scratches and a little bit of paint peel due to rock chips but was on the most part structurally sound, that was the case until unfortunately I had a lil accident with the car which meant it had to be changed. Before the accident happened I was gonna get the original bumper sprayed when I eventually got the funds together to get the whole car resprayed as it’d of looked like new and would’ve went well with the rest of the paintwork.

How Did The Bumper Get Damaged?

Unfortunately for me, I had a bit of a freak accident involving ProjectC70 one day, Me and my Stepdad went out to the car to do some errands and while he went into the house to get my Wallet I went to start the car from the passenger seat to warm it up, what I didn’t realise is that in this occasion my stepdad decided to leave my car in gear.

now before anyone says that I should’ve checked if it was in gear before starting, my stepdad has a habit of playing Russian Roulette regarding that so I presumed it was in Neutral (I wouldn’t of started it if I knew it was in Gear).

Now of course looking back I should’ve checked but as this only happens on random occasions I honestly thought it was in Neutral.

Anyways, as a lot of you who are reading this may have presumed, as soon as I started it, it shot off in gear and because I was in the passenger seat I had no control of the pedals whatsoever so I couldn’t take it out of gear, unfortunately for me, the only way I had to stop the car was to hit it into our neighbours wall.

Due to that happening the cars bumper had an almighty scuff on the front right corner of the bumper, on top of that, due to the speed the car was going, when it hit the wall it was enough to smash the glass of the RHS Fog Lamp, that meant not just did I need to Replace the front bumper but also remove most of the front end to get to the Fog Lamps.

There is one almighty silver lining to this story though, Even though on the outside it looked like a serious shunt, underneath all that it was still all straight, no chassis damage to the car whatsoever which meant not only was it cosmetic but it wasn’t gonna be a hell of a job to do, plus I’d be saving some money too while at it.


The Strip Down:

First of all, I put the car onto our ramps and unplugged the old Fog Lamps from the power ready for removal, really easy as they just twist off and disconnect, The Drivers side (RHS) was a little bit more difficult as the Windscreen Washer Bottle was in the way but after a bit of fiddling it was finally disconnected.


With that done, I removed the 6 T25 Screws from the Front Wheel Arch Liners as I had to remove them to get the bumper off, these were a pain in the backside as I had to fight rusty chewed screws which weren’t wanting to come off, but with a bit of persuasion, we finally removed them.


With them removed, it was time to strip down most of the front end, this included the Headlamps, Indicator Units, & Headlamp wipers. The headlamps were super easy to undo as they’re held in with 3 10mm bolts and two electrical connections each unit, the Indicators came out next and they just clip in so it was just a simple thing of unclipping them, removing the electrical connection and they were out, next were the headlamp wipers and wiper arms, for the wipers themselves it was just clips and with the arms it was two 8mm bolts and they were out as well, when all that was removed it started looking less and less like a car but I wasn’t finished yet as I still had to remove the bumper.


The bumper itself is held in with two 14mm Bolts as well as the 6x T25 screws in the wheel arch liners, now while the screws eventually came out, the bolts on the other hand were difficult to say the least to remove, due to where they are placed and the age of the car itself the bolts were really hard to remove as they’d never been removed before in the cars nearly 18 year life, my 450nm Buzz gun wasn’t doing anything and neither were conventional ratchets & sockets neither so what I had to do was get smart and grab an old Trampoline pole which was laying around to use as leverage and hey presto, slowly but surely, they came undone and the bumper was free.


This is the difficult part coming up next, now with nearly everything I do on the car, If I’ve never done it before I’ll pop onto the internet and find a guidance video on how to fix it/ remove items etc.


And with this it was no exception, I personally watched RobertDIY’s video on how to remove the bumper skin and followed similar steps and to a certain extent he was correct, however, on a C70 the whole Bumper comes undone instead of the outer skin which means it has mounting brackets attached to it, clips, an assortment of screws and a rather large Steel Crash bar fitted to it which meant it’s heavier than the video explained.

If you ever find yourself in a similar situation, I’d suggest doing what we done and using a pasting table to put the bumper onto so you can strip it down as it makes it far easier to do and you don’t need to lift it far neither.


Once it was on our Pasting Table it was so much easier to strip down, with everything at waist height it was a doddle to remove everything, first of all to come off was a multitude of clips, when they were removed we removed the brackets for the fog lamps making sure the bolts stayed with the brackets so we didn’t lose them.

After all that was done we moved the bumper and table to outside our front door so we could strip down the main parts of the Bumper without getting in the way of people walking up & down the street.


Over the next few days we removed the main components from the old bumper ready for the new bumper, these included the grille for the intercooler, the Bumper bar, the Bumper bar cover and a rain guard as well as plastic inserts for the wheel arch liner screws. Once they were out and the Bumper turned up, we were ready for refit time!


While waiting for the new bumper to arrive, we put all the screws and bolts into a container with WD40 in it to clean them up and make them easier to refit etc.

Also while that was also going on, I removed the Bumper Brackets, grinded off the old paint, got rid of the rust which was plaguing it and then primed it and resprayed it ready for Refit! Two 17mm bolts held them in place to the car.


Rebuilding The New Bumper:

When the new bumper finally turned up we slowly but surely built the new bumper back up, while most of it was the reverse of the removal due to the time it took, we had to go by pictures so we could work out where everything went and how it got put back together, it was a really mellow job and something which didn’t really felt the need to rush.


Using the hot weather to our advantage we were able to refit all the parts within a week or so and that was including washing the Crash bar, the two front wheels and painting the bumper brackets.

With the Bumper finally rebuilt and the brackets finally dried out and ready for refit, it was time to wrap this job up good and proper, we bought the table & Bumper back down to the car and within a few hours it was fully attached to the car.


We started by refitting the brackets which a piece of cake as only 17mm bolts held them each side, once that was done, we carefully refitted the full bumper unit back on to the car being extra careful not to drop it.


Once the Bumper was lined up, we refitted the Air Bag sensors, refitted the 6x T25 Screws for the Arch Liners and then refitted the two 14mm bolts for the bumper itself, as soon as we were happy it was refitted and bolted down, we triple checked everything to make sure it was safe and nothing was missing we finally put the two front wheels back on and tightened them up and that was the bumper refitted back to the car, however it wasn’t exactly finished just yet as we still had to fit the accessories.


Refitting The Accessories:

As Soon as the Bumper was refitted, we got round to refitting the Headlamps, Indicator units and the Wipers, this was the icing on the cake really as it started to look more and more like a car the more we done and it was finally starting to get it’s face back, we started off with the Headlamps and they were easy as they were 3x 10mm bolts each sides + Electrical connections, then the indicator units slid in and connected back up and then the final cherry on the cake was the wipers, two 8mm nuts and they were back into place!


we decided to wait until the new RHS Fog Lamp turned up at the dealership so we could fit them back up together instead of fitting one then the other as it’d look slightly odd, a few weeks went by and while I was at the V60 UK Launch a few weeks ago I picked up the new Fog Lamp unit ready for refit.


With the Fog Lamps ready for refitting we decided to get to work and refit them, The passenger side was relatively easy as there was hardly nothing in the way but the Drivers side (RHS) was not however, the way the C70 is designed, the screen wash bottle is in the way and it makes access terrible to fit the lamp in with it in place so there was only one thing for it – remove the washer bottle, fit the fog lamp and then refit the bottle, so that’s what we done.


When removing the bottle we realised we had to undo 4 bolts all in differing hard to reach places but after finding them all it came out easily enough and the new fog lamp fitted in no problem whatsoever, unfortunately however the washer bottle pump broke while refitting it which means I need to get another one.

Even though that broke, I was still over the moon the fog lamps were in and wired up as that was one of the big pieces of the puzzle to be fit together.


There is still some more stuff I need to refit but these are only small in comparison to what has already been done, I still need to refit the Number Plate as that got removed when the bumper got disassembled, new Wiper blades for the Headlamps as the current ones are perished and the washer bottle pump, I could also be doing with tyres as a hefty chunk got taken out of them when the car hit the wall as well as new wheel weights as they also shot off when the car hit the wall.

Once these are done the car should be relatively road worthy and should be drivable once again which is something I can’t wait for.

In Summary:

Over these last few weeks I’ve learnt how to do something I’ve never thought I’d be able to do as I’ve never really played around with body panels before, Admittedly, I did take my time quite a bit and that was only due to me wanting to be careful and not mess it up.

This also teaches me to check to see if the car is in gear or not as I don’t want it happening ever again, overall even though it wasn’t something I originally intended to do, it was something I thoroughly enjoyed doing and I learnt a lot from it.

I’ve witnessed first hand how strong Volvo’s really are, How waterproof they are as well (No Rust on the 17 year old Crash Bar) which was definitely an improvement on the first crash bar I’d ever seen on a MK2 Toyota Yaris which was so rusty it wouldn’t even set off the airbags if involved in a crash (Quite a bad feat for a car ten years younger than the Volvo).

I’ve also learnt how to use a grinder for the first time and also how to rejuvenate metalwork by getting rid of rust and spraying the brackets with Primer & spray paint.

And last but not least, I’ve also first hand witnessed Volvo’s build quality and engineering and have to admit for a premium car from a premium brand, it was so easy to do and so stress free it was weird to think it would be possible.

When I get more money, I’ll get the remaining parts and fit them into place and get it back on he road for it’s first proper shakedown session since I started working on it all those years ago.

Hope You Enjoy!

By Alex Jebson